Butterfly Collar Kalle Shirtdress (+ Giveaway!)

Hello, friends!

Thanks for stopping by to read my first post!  You have no idea how happy I am to be back blogging again.

If you’ve seen me before, it has probably either been on Instagram or on my old blog, Stitch Study.  Some of you might then be wondering: why the new blog?  Well, I decided to switch things up and start fresh for a few reasons, but the main thing is that I want to take this sewing adventure in a different, more exciting direction.  In the past, I mostly just recorded my makes and noted any pattern adjustments I’d made.  But now that I feel I’ve moved beyond the beginner level (finally), I think I have more to say and share.  I believe that this new platform will allow me to do that, and I hope you’ll come along for the ride!

You’ll still find me over on Instagram, though.  It’s an addiction, but I love it and have no desire to kick it.  Plus, the sewing community I’ve found there is awesome.  I also have no current plans to delete my old blog, so those posts will continue to hang out there for now.

Alright, now that the formalities are out of the way we can get on to the good stuff.  Patterns! Fabric! Sewing! Clothes!

This, of course, is the Kalle shirt/shirtdress from Closet Case Patterns.  Friends, I love this pattern.  It’s the perfect casual dress, in my book.  I made another version in chambray and I wear it all the time with leggings.  So often, in fact, that when my mother sees me she asks if I have nothing else to wear.  But I mean, why bother, right?  I love how the deeply curved hem and boxy shape are paired with the crisp cuffs and collar.  It’s comfortable for sure, but still oh so very put together.

I actually chose this pattern as part of an effort to make my wardrobe more wearable.  I realized earlier this year that I’ve been saving a lot of my nicer fabrics for special occasion garments – i.e. fitted party dresses with big skirts that are worn once and then hang in my closet only to be pulled out for a random Throwback Thursday post.  I guess it’s also possible to be perpetually overdressed in my everyday life, but I’m not really the kind of gal who’s comfortable wearing a fit and flare dress daily.

So I made it a goal to fill my closet with more everyday wearable pieces made out of quality materials.  Basically, take my fancy fabric and sew it up in a more casual style that I’ll enjoy wearing at home or at work.  I think this Kalle, made in silk crepe, fits that bill very nicely.  Obviously, I have many more versions of this pattern planned!

The pattern has a lot of options, but here I made the dress version (view C), with the hidden button placket and regular collar.  I cut a size 12, but graded out to a 16 starting at the lengthen/shorten line down to the hem.  I also did a 1″ FBA without a dart, following the tutorial on the sew-along.  I often grade out at the hip because I’m pear shaped, but it wasn’t really necessary with this pattern.  I actually ended up taking it in from the underarm to the top of the hip because it turned out a little too wide for my taste.  It’s still loose-fitting, but nips in at the waist a little to give some shape.  I believe I pinched out about 1.5 inches on each side at the waist, so about 6 inches overall.

I didn’t feel the need to make this adjustment in the last version, which just goes to show how different fabrics can affect fit.  I think in a cotton chambray (with more body to it than this very lightweight silk), the silhouette has more of the intended “boxiness” rather than “bagginess.”

Another change I made was to the collar.  I was admiring some Chloé and Gucci dresses I’d seen in ads, and loved how they had big, beautiful, oversized butterfly collars.  My first instinct was to start searching for vintage ’70s patterns, but I’ve been on a stash diet for a while and I’m desperately trying to avoid adding anything to it.  So Kalle to the rescue!  It was a simple modification to make, and I like how it adds interest to an otherwise understated dress.  I’ll share how I did it tomorrow, so if anyone is curious just check back here.

The main fabric is a beige silk crepe de chine that I purchased from Fabric Mart last year.  I believe it also has some lycra in it because it’s got some bounce.  The mustard fabric used for the collar, cuffs and placket is a stretch poly crepe from fabric.com (it definitely has some lycra in it).  It has a nice weight and texture, similar to wool crepe.  This dress started out as a “first draft” for another piece of silk I have in my stash.  Basically, I wanted to practice sewing with silk before I cut into the good stuff.  It turns out that silk is actually really really really nice to sew with, and the polyester gave me the most trouble.  It didn’t want to hold a crease or stay where I pinned it. at. all.  Plus unpicking was awful because the stitches got lost in the textured weave.  I still love the color, though.  I have a little less than two yards left over, so this is definitely not the last you’ll see of it!

And even though working with this fabric was a pain, I really like how the French cuffs on the sleeves turned out.  The sleeve pattern is an add-on expansion PDF available in the Closet Case Patterns shop.  I was hoping something like this would come along because it’s December and boy is it getting cold now!

Okay, so since you all have been so kind reading through this whole post, I won’t tease you anymore.  I’m giving away a copy of the Kalle pattern!  This is not sponsored or anything, just my way of saying thanks for stopping by and visiting my new blog.  So if you want to be entered to win the pattern, just leave a comment below!  You’ll have until next Monday night (December 11 at midnight EST) to enter, then I’ll pick a random winner and announce it here on the following Thursday (12/14).  Just be sure to check back to see if you’ve won! (Or ya know, hit that follow button and make sure you don’t miss the announcement!)

**Giveaway is now closed!  Thank you for participating!**

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSaveSaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

SaveSave

Comments

    1. Post
      Author
  1. Sarah

    Gorgeous dress. I love your decision to start using your best fabrics for garments that will be worn more regularly than party dresses. I’m thinking maybe I should do the same.

    1. Post
      Author
      Henna

      Thank you, Sarah! I’m glad you’re into the idea – if you can figure out how to make sequins casual, let me know! I’m staring at about 8 yards of it haha 😉

  2. Hajir

    Congratulations! Love seeing your progress Henna. This is my kinda dress.. comfy and oversize perfect for work.

    1. Post
      Author
  3. SaSa

    Your new Kalle dress fits perfectly in a wearable, well made, modern wardrobe. You can certainly wear the colors very well, too! Your new blog has a very modern and appealing look. Thank you for giving a giveaway!

    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
      Henna

      Thanks! Let me tell you, as instagram-loving as I am, it was almost painful to not post these photos as soon as I took them 🙂

    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
  4. Lisa

    Congratulations on the new blog. I can’t wait to read all you have to say! I’d love to win this pattern, too, so thanks for the opportunity. I love this fabric combination, and I have also found that I like silk crepe de chine—better than rayon challis, actually. I also like your focus on dressing modestly. That’s a personal goal of mine, too.

    1. Post
      Author
      Henna

      Thank you! And yes, it’s so much better than rayon challis! The whole time I was sewing I kept thinking – why have I been avoiding silk all my life thinking rayon was easier?

  5. Vesna

    Congratulations on your new blog!!! I love your spin on this pattern, it feels ’70s in the best possible way! Can’t wait to see more from you 🙂

    1. Post
      Author
      Henna

      Thanks, Vesna! Haha you’re right – I’ve been feeling the ’70s lately! Stop me before I make an avocado green jumpsuit!

  6. Jenn

    I saw you making the dress on Instagram. It turned out beautifully and I definitely think you got the expensive designer look like Chloé or Gucci with the contrasting fabric and exaggerated cuffs and collar.

    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
  7. kalimak

    Congratulations on the new blog! I’ve been admiring this collar on Instagram for a while now. I love the double lines of topstitching. You definitely put 70’s style collars on my radar! I like the cuffs, too. Cool dress 🙂

    1. Post
      Author
  8. Christine Kille

    Congratulations on your new blog, I look forward to your future makes and your sharing of knowledge! I have been wanting to try this pattern and really like your rendition with the contrasting placket, cuffs and the changes you made to the collar style.

    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
  9. Becca G

    Happy New Blog!
    WOW I didn’t realize right away this was the same pattern I had been seeing elsewhere as it’s much less casual in this super fabric.
    Amazing what fabric choice & style can do, totally transform a pattern to the next level.
    Beautiful!

    1. Post
      Author
  10. Kipp!

    Congratulations on the new blog!! Lookin good! I love the rich color you chose for your placket, collar and cuffs! 😍

    1. Post
      Author
  11. Jennifer

    I love this new blog format for you- can’t wait to read more! And thanks for sharing this pattern & your modifications- love your style❤️

    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
    1. Post
      Author
  12. Julia

    Girl I love being able to read more about your sewing through your blog!
    And I TOTALLY got the 70s-tastic Chloé reference with the collar… I really want to find you some giant rose colored aviators and a macrame bag and use bright sun leak filters in all the photos… I’m getting carried away. But still.

    Also- thanks for inspiring me to put ideas down in a blog too! Hopefully I can publish some posts before Xmas.

    1. Post
      Author
      Henna

      Aww it was so nice to read your comment! And OMG – I was playing with the sun flares while editing one of the images, but I talked myself out of it! I would love to read all about your thoughts in a blog – you should do it!

  13. Aklat

    It’s great that there are still people who blog 😉 I’m not a blog kind of person but I enjoy reading it a lot 🙂

    1. Post
      Author

Comments are closed.